Day 4--What's worse, graffiti or bullet and shrapnel holes?

First, a great 6 hour drive from Kotor to Sarajevo.  We weren't sure what to expect but we were't disappointed.  Similar to driving through the Rockies or Sierra Nevada, great views and vistas, still a bit of snow in some areas.

As we descended into Sarajevo, though, our perspective darkened.  Our first stop was the underground tunnels dug during the Sarajevo siege of 1992-1996.  Again some history.  First do you remember the 1984 Sarajevo Winter Olympics? One of the first Olympic games in a communist country, and the first Olympics in a Muslim country.  Now, 8 years later, as Yugoslavia was disintegrating, the Serbian Nationals wanted to strangle Sarajevo in part because it was a rare situation where Muslims, Catholics, Orthodox and Jews lived together peaceably.

Outside of actual building where the Bosnians emerged to flee or fight.  Note the bullet holes in the walls.  Also, today is White Armband Day.  Many in the area were wearing white arm bands in solidarity to the resistance.  And finally the red 'splatter' is how the Bosnian's treat the blast mark from mortars, these are all over the city.  The red is acrylic.

The tunnel was about 1/2 mile long

13,000 died during the siege that lasted a year longer then the Leningrad siege in WW II.  Today, we visited the tunnel that ran under the international airport that was controlled by the United Nations. They were neutral in the war but in order for the Bosnians to survive they tunneled under the airport to escape for supplies, medicine, food and to escape.  The tunnel was unknown by both the United Nations and the Serbs.  An amazing experience for us to go in the tunnel and support building.  To learn more, you need to check Wikipedia.  Oh, what were you doing in 1992-1996 during this dark time for Serbia?  Puts it in perspective.........

We have seen many cemeterys in our travels, but never with so many new headstones.

After the tunnel visit we found our Airbnb.  Great place, huge and very comfortable.  Then we walked into the Old City for some shopping and dinner.  Part of it is Bosnian the other is Ottoman, (read Muslim).  Reminded us of Morocco.  We also discovered that we are half way through Ramadan so many of the restaurants were empty or closed.  We took advantage of that and ate an early dinner.  We were told that restaurants start to get busy at 8pm and the real rush is on after 10 for dinner, people are eating till 2 in the morning.   (I will have to say, we saw some Muslims cheating and eating a bit early......)

Very nice Airbnb flat.

The outside of the building is 'historic' no real changes are allowed, but,
notice the bullet and shrapnel holes and the ever present graffiti.

To answer my question, graffiti or bullet and shrapnel holes?  We found a lot of both, everywhere. The bullet and shrapnel holes were first.   I guess after what Sarajevo went through graffiti is a just response to the horror of the war.

Another Sarajevo Rose.  Also, it is recorded that NO windows remained intact in Sarajevo by the end of the siege.